Friday, October 9, 2015

Leeward Islands Part I: St. Martin to Guadeloupe


 The Leeward Islands
St. Martin to Guadeloupe


5/20/2015 We left Virgin Gorda at 1400 and did an overnight passage to St. Martin across the Anegada passage. We left in the afternoon to time our arrival at St. Martin so we could get under the bridge which has limited opening times to get into the Lagoon anchorage. The Anegada Passage (nicknamed the Oh- My- God- A- Passage) is another one of those that can be very rough and unpleasant. But again we got lucky as we did in the Mona Passage and had a motor-sail with a reefed main to steady the boat. It got a bit lumpy around 10p.m. until we got into the shadow of St. Martin. We arrived too early for the first bridge opening so we had to anchor in Simpson Bay at about 0500 until the first opening at 0930. There were a number of sailboats queued up to go through the bridge and then a huge mega-yacht got in the back of the line. There was a port authority boat out there trying to rush us through so the mega-yacht could get in on the first opening. It was a bit hairy with a narrow opening and boats lined up bow to stern trying to pass through. But we made it and found our anchor spot on the Dutch side of the Lagoon. We had to look for a lighter colored water area(sandy) rather than the darker water which had weeds on the bottom and where the holding was less dependable. We actually anchored fairly close to the airport runway (but not in the exclusion zone) but the flights were not all that frequent and stopped in early evening so didn’t disturb our sleep.

Half of the island is French (Saint Martin) and half is Dutch (Sint Maarten). If you anchor in Marigot Bay on the French side, you don’t have to pay for the bridge opening nor do you pay the fee to anchor in the lagoon. However, the Marigot Bay anchorage can be quite rolly so we elected to anchor inside the Lagoon where it is calm and protected. The short time we were anchored in Simpson Bay on the outside of the Lagoon on the Dutch side gave us all the rolling we could handle.
While in St. Martin, we enjoyed baguettes and pastries on the French side and did a little shopping but didn’t buy anything but a small dry bag with a shoulder strap which is now Liz Ann’s purse. We went to Mahoe Bay which is at the end of the airport runway. People swim here and line up along the airport fence and hang on when the big jets start up and it blows them out with their legs and bodies flying like kites in the air. We just watched the crazies doing this. We then went over to Mullet bay and had a nice swim. The water was refreshing but not cold and the beach was nice.
The crazies holding onto the fence waiting for the planes to blow them back

Wonderful pastries at Seafina in St. Martin

Sculpture along the waterfront

Swimming at Mullet Bay

We ate at Lagoonies (a cruiser hangout) on the Dutch side a few times too. We had to leave our friends, Caroline and Greig (S/V Lequesteau) in St. Martin because their engine died and they had to stay and order a new engine and wait for it to come in and be installed. 

Our first landing spot on St. Martin

A reunion of the "Rat Pack" group that left Georgetown, Bahamas together

Lights on the bridge in the Lagoon in St.Martin

The lights change color every few seconds
5/25/2015 We left Simpson Bay Lagoon in St. Martin at 10:30 with S/V Jump, S/V Mythago and S/V Tehani and sailed to St. Bart’s. We arrived at Anse Columbier mooring field at 1545 that evening and were heading to a mooring when a very rude speedboater raced ahead of us for the mooring to which we were headed. We had to go take a mooring on the other side of the field which was a bit rolly but not too bad. We only spent the night here and then headed out the next morning to Guadeloupe. Hope to spend more time here next time but we were trying to get south to be in Grenada by our deadline of June 1 for hurricane season. Our insurance requires that we be south of 12 degrees 30 minutes during hurricane season.
5/26/2015 We left St. Bart’s at 0540 and motor-sailed the entire way to DesHaies, Guadeloupe. We had 4 foot swells and Liz Ann wasn’t feeling very well—a little upset stomach but more just very tired. Figured it was a virus. When we arrived in Guadeloupe about 0700 the next morning(yes, another overnighter) no mooring balls were available so we anchored. We went into DesHaies and found the customs/immigration in a little shop in town and checked in. We went back to the boat for a rest, got up and made pizza for dinner and then crashed at 7:30 p.m. We didn’t wake up until 5:30 the next morning. The next morning, we moved to a mooring ball. These balls were very different from any others we had encountered: there was a long metal rod with a hoop at the top that sticks up from the ball. You tie onto the hoop. It does make it easy to reach but that dang metal rod and hoop bumped into our hull all night long. There wasn’t enough wind to push us back off the mooring so we were constantly trying to figure out ways to prevent the rod from hitting the hull and keeping us awake. We weren’t very successful.
Copying the weather report from the SSB radio at 0630 while on our way to Guadeloupe
Passing near Saba Rock

Sunrise the next morning before we got to Guadeloupe

We walked to the Botanical Gardens one day and toured through them. They were beautiful! So many beautiful plants! The next day Greg ad I hiked along/in the river to a small waterfall. It was supposed to be a 1 ½ to 2 hour hike but it took us 4 ½  hours round trip. I don’t know if we are that out of shape or the guy that wrote the guide book is on island time or something! Greg took a walk to a little cemetery that we could see on the hill one day. It looked like little houses. We bought great baguettes and croissants from the bakery in town and actually found some really good French wine at Cave de des Haies that was about $8.00. We also found some French box wine that we liked and stocked up on that.

Koi fish at the Botanical Gardens

Lilly Pond at Botanical Gardens





Heliconia



The Loriquets in the aviary in Botanical gardens





Surrounded by the buttress roots of the Kapok tree

Kapok tree





Catherine from Jump under the Banyan tree








Porcelain Rose



Pink Ginger

The Baobab tree
Flower of a banana tree











Passion Flower

The anchorage in Des Haies with cemetery in the background

Greg on our river hike


Some ants hard at work


Hiking the river bed is hard work!

Taking a break


Greg walking by a tree with huge buttress roots
Mushroom on a log in the river

Bromeliads on a tree limb over the river

We hiked all this way for this little waterfall!!


This is it?
Cemetery on the hill


View of the harbor from the cemetery
More of the Leewards in Part II.......