Thursday, May 15, 2014

Southern Exumas



Had a great sail all the way from Warderick Wells into the anchorage at Big Majors Spot. Put in a single reef when it got up to 18 knots and we made 7.5 knots on a beam reach a good bit of the way. We checked out Staniel Cay and the yacht club just south of our anchorage. Walked around the town and did a little provisioning and got the propane tank refilled (not the one for cooking just the one to run the generator for the watermaker). Cruised by the beach with the pigs and sure enough, they swam out to the dinghy looking for food. They are huge spotted pigs! I didn’t want them getting too close- afraid they might take a bite out of the dinghy. We did feed them some carrots.

Rick and Cindy from S/V Tortuga at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club


Sharks at the docks on Staniel Cay



The swimming pigs




On Friday, we snorkelled at Thunderball Grotto. It is an underwater cave that you enter at slack low tide and there is a huge cavern inside that has holes in the top that the sun shines through and lights up the fish swimming in the cave. It was fantastic. Apparently they made some of the James Bond movies here (Thunderball). The coral outside of the cave was gorgeous too.


Sun shining into the grotto













Apparently, lots of celebrities come to Staniel Cay but we didn't see any. Johnny Depp owns an island between Warderick Wells and Staniel Cay (Little Halls Pond). Didn't see him either.

We left Big Majors this morning and sailed to Blackpoint settlement on Guana Cay. It was only about a 2 hour sail but started slow on a run (about 4 knots) and then changed course and we were on a nice beam reach again doing 6 knots. Sailed almost all the way into the anchorage area and  anchored near S/V Ticket To.. who had left Bimini with us 2 weeks ago. They were just getting ready to head out. Our other two travelling companions opted to stay in Big Majors another day. At Blackpoint we finally had internet service so we sent out two blogs. We had a laundry there too so we caught up on that too. We ate at Lorraine’s cafĂ© in Blackpoint and got to know Lorraine a bit. She made us some great cracked conch and some good ribs and BBQ chicken and pigeon peas and rice (a Bahamas staple). Also had lunch one day at Deshamon’s with a couple we met at the laundry. Had pizza that wasn’t bad but different. The mailboat didn’t come last week so everyone from restaurants to grocery stores were low on supplies and choices were limited. Pretty much all of the food in the Exumas is ordered from Nassau and comes in weekly on the supply boat. Choices are limited but essentials are available (if they don’t run out before the supply boat comes.) Blackpoint is a nice anchorage, much quieter than Big Major’s/ Staniel Cay.
Working on the blog at Lorraine's cafe

Lorraine and LizAnn


We left Blackpoint on Tuesday, April 15 and sailed to Little Farmer’s which is just south of Great Guana Cay where Blackpoint is. It has a tricky entrance but we timed it to arrive near high tide and used visual piloting and the course on our Explorer charts and got in the anchorage just fine. There was a swift current so we decided to pick up a mooring ball which was quite a challenge with the current pushing us one way and the wind another. We met Roosevelt at the Little Farmer’s yacht club, He is the manager and our friends Vic and Marilyn had told us we had to meet him. We took the dinghy over to the southern end of Great Guana Cay just north of Oven Rock and found the path to cross over to the ocean side. We found the path to the cave that Vic had told us about too. The cave was huge with big stalactites and stalagmites and water running in it. After checking out the cave (and cooling off inside of it) we continued on to the ocean, or Exuma Sound side, and had a nice beach all to ourselves. It was wonderful!
Signs to various places on Little Farmer's

Sea Grapes

Stingray near the dinghy dock at Little Farmer's

Hiking across Great Guana Cay near Oven Rock

View to the East (Exuma Sound) side, our private beach

Entrance to cave


Framed by stalactites and stalagmites



On Wednesday, people we had met in Bimini, Lisa and Andre and their two boys arrived in their motor yacht, Sea Hunt IV. We went into the little town and checked out the store which was not very well stocked (no mailboat recently) and walked to Ty’s Sunset Bar and Grill where we met Ty, the owner and his sister, Sherrel, the bartender and had a nice cool drink. We went back for drinks at sunset with the crew from Sea Hunt IV and had a really nice, relaxing evening. We were the only ones there. 
Watching the sun set from Ty's Sunset Grill at Little Farmer's Cay